Exploring the Intersection of Food, Culture and Identity
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Category — Recipes

You Say Skahn, I Say Skowen

I think that I shall never own

A biscuit nicer than a scone

Light and flaky, crumble, crunch,

I’ll eat me up a great big bunch.

HC's Cheddar-Spinach scones


Okay, so I’m not much of a poet. But damn, can I make a scone.

Most of us have probably eaten scones, though very few of us agree on how to pronounce the word. Scots, Brits, Australians and Canadians – in other words, the Empire – say “skahn” (as in “con” and “bon-bon”) while Americans generally say “skowe-n” (as in “bone” and “phone.”) Personally, I don’t care how someone says the word as long as they don’t refer to my breakfast as a “Singing Hinnie” which is apparently what they’re called in the north of England.

A quick websearch (okay, yes, Wikipedia) tracks the first mention of scones to 1513 and says that they would have been large, unleavened cakes of coarse oats – read: horse feed. These days, of course, we prize scones for their tender, crumbly flake.

These won’t disappoint. It’s all about the butter…

Cheese and Spinach Scones

adapted from Dried Cherry Scones

Better Homes and Gardens Cookbook

1 ¼ all purpose flour

½ cup spelt or whole wheat flour

¼ cup cornmeal

1 ½ tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

¼ cup butter, cold, cut into pieces

¾ cup frozen spinach, thawed, all the water squeezed from it

1 cup grated cheddar cheese

1 beaten egg yolk

1 cup sour cream

¼ cup grated parmesean or grana padano

In a large bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients.

Using your fingers or a pastry blender, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Add the spinach and toss well, coating the pieces with flour and separating any clumps. Add the cheese and toss until covered in flour.

In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk and sour cream. Add all at once to the flour mixture. Using a fork, stir until combined (mixture will seem dry.)

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead dough by folding and gently pressing for 10 or 12 strokes or until nearly smooth. Pat into a 7-inch disc. Cut into 8 wedges.

Place the wedges 1 inch apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Sprinkle with the grated parmesan or Grana Padano.

Bake in 400 degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown.

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September 30, 2011   2 Comments

Of “Meatloaf” and Matzo

photo by Renee Comet

Sittau’s kibbe saniyeh is my Indian husband’s favorite meal: two layers of kibbe stuffed with lamb, onions and pine nuts. But I’ve never thought of it as “meatloaf.” Apparently, the world thinks different, and that’s fine with me. The more kibbe in the world, the better!

Thought these two stories — about Middle Eastern “Meatloaf” and the particularities of Sephardic Rosh Hashanah dishes — made nice bookends.

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September 21, 2011   1 Comment

July 4 Recipes from America’s Melting Pot

Korean kalbi

Korean Kalbi is salty-sweet and spicy

On the Fourth of July America’s melting pot becomes a red hot grill. Check out these terrific recipes from great American traditions: Korean kalbi, Japanese yakitori, my grandfather’s Syrian “lambburgers,” my mother-in-law’s tandoori salmon. Please see my recent story for NPR.org. And happy grilling!

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June 30, 2011   Comments Off